Tailor s measure



MOSSES T. ROWLANDS, OF PITTSTON FERRY, PENN SYLVANIA4 TAILORS`lVlIlllASUIEtlil.

Speccation of Letters Patent No. 10,779, dated. April 18, 1854.

To all whom t may concern.' j

Be it known that I, Messias T. RowLANDs, of Pittston Ferry, in thecounty of Luzerne and State of Pennsylvania, have invented a new anduseful apparatus for taking measures and cutting garments for persons ofeither sex in connection with` a triangular system of adrneasurementcalled the trigonometrical measures or tailors trigonometrical measurer;and I do hereby declare that the same is described and represented inthe following specification and drawings.

The nature of my invention consists in securing several scales to thebody of the person to be measured with xed points and pivots vin thescales which points and pivots form the points of imaginary base lines,from Vwhich a series of triangulations are taken which determine thedimensions of the body with the greatest accuracy; so as to insurethegarments to fit perfectly upon deformed as well as upon the mostperfectly formed persons. After the measure is taken the scales areremo-ved` from the body and applied tothe cloth so as to repeat thetriangulations taken upon the body, upon the cloth, where, with the aidof a square and sector containing a series of scales adapted to theseveral parts of the garment tobe cut, it is marked out withmathematical certainty so that it may be made up at once thereby savingthe trouble, delay and eX- pense of basting the garment and trying it onthe person practiced by tailors who use the old systems of measuring andcutting.

To enable others skilled in the art to make and use my invention I willproceed to describe itsconstruction and the mode of using it, referringto the accompanying drawings in which the same letters indicate likeparts .1

in all the figures.

Figure 1 is the side scale; Fig.` 2, the front and Fig?) the back, beingall represented with the pro-per straps attached to them to fasten themupon the body of the person whose measure is to be taken. Fig. Z1represents one side of the square and sector and i Figs. 6 and 7 irepresent the body of a person with the ap-` Fig. 5 the opposite side.

paratus fastened upon it so as to take his measure.` Fig. 8 is a diagramof the fore part of a coat; Fig. 9, the side piece; Fig.

l 10, the back; Figs. 11, 12, 13, 14 and 15, the

back in several of the different positions in which it is used to cutthe other two parts;

Fig. 16, the skirt of a dress coat and 17, the skirt of a frock coat.`

The scales represented in the three first figures may be made of leatherpaper, or s uch other material as maybe convenient;

and a scale of inches and parts of aninch marked upon them, and studsfastened in them to which the straps are hitched to fasten them upon thebody, also the tapes used in taking the measure. The straps to fastenthe scales upon the body may be made of leather or other material andconstructed as represented or of such form as will `answer t-he purposewith series of holes so as to hitch them upon the studs in differentpositions; also with buckles to adjust them to the dimensions ofdifferent persons; or instead of the buckles a portion of some of thestraps may be made of india rubber so they will answer for differentdimensions. The side scale, Fig. 1, has a metal plate e `fastened tfawhich is paced against the front of the arm when the top of the scale`is placed under it, the arm being raised to a horizontal position. Imake a square and sector of wood, metal, paper, or other material of theform represented in the drawing and twicek the size (the five firstfigures in the drawing being drawn 6 in. to a foot) and mark the severalscales upon one side as represented in Fig. Ll, and the scales as shownin Fig. 5, upon the opposite side; also attach a vibrating scale for thesleeves as represented in the drawing so as to swing round upon the sideor a groove may be made for it in the edge of the square.

The pivots one of which is represented at Fig.` 18` are fastened in witha nut and screw, and there are h oles in the scales so as to change thestuds as follows N to O, O; D to QQ; F to SS as represented in thedrawing.

`as represented in Figs. 6 and 7, having first adjusted the pivots thatare movable according to your judgment so as to adapt it to the size ofthe person to be measured. Put v the corner', A of the front scalehigher or lower in the center under thechinaccording llO `to the frontscale or perpendicular.

to style with the edge perpendicular down the front. Adjust the top ofthe side scale close up under the arm when it is in a horizontalposition with the plate e against the front of the arm and the scaleparallel Now put the corner B of the back scale to the place marked overthe socket bone with the edge of the scale perpendicular down the centerof the back.v Now .proceed to take his measure by beginning in front atA, and drawing the permanent tapemeasure a fastened on C horizontallyacross his breast and note the distance above it von the front scalefrom A 5 inches; then note the distance n on the same scale wherethestrap b crosses it at c 17 inches, (the strap b surrounding the body atits smallest circumference.) I then note the distance on the back scalefrom B to the strap b which is 15% inches (b) and on the same scale theback tack or hip buttons, 17%, also for the bottom of t-he skirts 32%.Then with the permanent tape c fastened on D drawn horizontally acrossthe back blade bone I note the distance on ythe said tape 11% incheswhich is reckoned from the perpendicular e of the scye square. I nowmake a star f) on the shoulder seam half way between the collar andsleeve, and another star (vk g) on the scye seam opposite the center ofthe arm when it is raised to a horizontal position, and another star It)on the back side seam in the center of the round of the blade bone. Inow hitch a, tape on the pivot E and note the distance to the star f 4%in. then change the tape to the pivot F and note the distance to star *if 5% in. then to'E again and note the distance to 7k g 7% in., andchange the tape to G and note to k g 8% in. and move it to F and note tok h 5% in. then move to Gr and note to zv 5% in. The directions measuredto the stars are shown in dotted lines on the drawing with the distancesmeasured marked upon `ythem in Fig. 7. I now proceed to take the frontmeasures Fig. 6, by hitching the tape on the pivot H and note thedistance from' H to the intersection of the front scale and strap b(marked c) 10 in.; which point c is 17 in. on the front scale. Then notethe distance from H to the 5 in. mark upon the front scale 9% in. thedistance onV the tape a to same mark on frontv scale 6% in. then withsame tape to point at 8% in. And then proceed to take the shouldermeasures with the tape a to star *A* f (see Fig. 7) 10% in. then hitch atape to pivot I and note the dist-ance to the same star if f 6% in.

Then with tape a to point B on the back 12% in. Then with the tapehitched on pivot J note the distance to star if g (back scye) 10% in.Then on back with c" note the distance to star *Y` 6% in. then with atape on H the distance to same i( k 5% then from 'same pivot H note thedistance to 15% or b on the back scale 9% in. Then with tape c to Av gon back scye 6%. I then no-te the distance from 17 in. c on the frontscale around the hip to 17% on the back scale to back tack 16 in. andthen take the measures for the sleeves in t-he usual manner to suit theprevailing fashion or otherwise.

An absmact of the above measures- Lengths, front, 5 17 lengths, back,15%- 17%-32%; bladev bone measure, 11%; back triangles,4L-5%--7%-S-5%5%; front triangles, 10-9%-6%'-8%; shoulder triangles,'10%-6%-12%-10%; side back triangles, 6%-5% 9%6%; hip measure, 16;sleeve measure (as taken with the above) ees-sia-ils-ieg-ns-io.

Directions to out the back, (Fig. 10.)- Rule line A and lay back scaleparallel to it allowing for top and back seam; hitch tape on pivot E anddraw arc B with 1% in. Then with tape on F with 5%- in. draw arc C; thenfrom E with 7% in. draw arc D; then from pivot G with 8% in. draw arc E;and on F with 5% in. draw arc F; then on G with 5% draw arc Gr.Nowremove the back scale, and lay the square Fig. 4, parallel to A withthe long arm toward the neck and so that the short arm will cross theintersection of D and E make a mark on the cloth at 11% on back scale ofsquare allowing for seams and draw line E3 across the back. Then lay theinside of the long arm of the square Fig. 5, parallel to A so as to markthe width of back at top 11% fromback top scale. Then mark your shoulderseam, back scye seam, and back side seam according to taste or fashionalso the back skirt according to measure. Then take the front scale Fig.2, and lay it on the cloth in the most advantageous position and draw aline J by the front and top edge and make *A* K and L opposite 5 and 15on the scale for length measures. Now put on the side scale Fig. 1, insuch a position that the pivot v H will be 9% in. from the 5 or *Y K and10 in. from the 15 or 1k L last named; hold the pivot H firm and vibratethe scale with tape a until 6% reaches to the above mentioned 5 in. or3k K on the front scale. Now rule a line by the top H and also by theperpendicular e; hold the 5 in. mark on front scale in its place at 5k Kand vibrate the top toward the side scale until the corner A is opposite8% on the tape a, and mark from A to K line M.

Shoulder triangles- With the tape on I in. mark arc I; then with a 10%in. arc J. Now take the back already .cut and put a pin through theintersection of B and C or star k f and stick it into the intersectionof I and J vibrate the back so that the corner B will stand at 12% ona'. Then rule the shoulder seam by the back fromA B to a pin by shoulderseam and back scye.

Side-back triangle-With tape c 6g; draw arc K; then from pivot H with 5%draw arc L. 4Now put afpin through t on the back and stick it into'theintersection of K and L and vibrate the back so that 15g in. on backseam or scale will be 9% in, from pivot H; then rule by the backshoulder, back scye, and back side seams. Now vibrate the back until gis opposite 6 on c; then rule by the back from opposite pin around tothe top (see M) thc-n put the long arm of the square to the back seamwith the corner as the back tack; then make a mark on the back at O,opposite 4; on the circular scale hold the corner of the square to itsplace and vibrate the long arm to the point O and rule the line P by theshort arm and make k Q where it intersects the front perpendicular.

Hip measureiPlace corner of square on star Q with the long arm below theline P and make star k R opposite 16 o-n dress and frock front; hip seamscale. Now place the square so as to measure from the intersection ofperpendicular e on H with scye scale and mark a S opposite 11%,; andrule a line from S to R. Now with S for a center and with the distancefrom S to 18% on the b-ack seam or tack draw arc T; now with 16 in. fromvk Q draw arc V to intersect T at star k W (16 in. is half the hipcircumference) draw front hip line from Z tothe corner on line P asrepresented. Then with the distance fromL S to the edge of the backopposite it mark curve U; now put the long arm of the square on the lineR', S with the corner at S the back lying in its proper position underthe square and rule the line X by the short arm of the. square. Thenmake a star *Y Y on the edge of the back where is crosses the arc U; nowmove the corner of back tack from 18% to star k WV at the same timetraverse the mark Y on the arc U; put the square on the back seam withthe corner at the back tack, run a line by the square and make a Z whereit crosses the line R', S move the square to 15%;4 on back seam and rulea line H2 by the square as before and make a *Y A2 where it crosses B,S. Then with center S draw arc B2 thro-ugh A2; then lay the square onthe line K with the corner at S and make ig C2 where the square crossesthe arc B2. Now the distance from C2 to A2 is three half inches; measurehalf an inch each side of k A2 and draw lines D2 and E2 from S also F2and G2 from Z to them. To cut the fish from t-he side piece measure theother half inch from the side back seam on the line H2; hold Y on U andvibrate the back to the half in.; markand rule the line I2; then drawthe line J 2 from the lower `end of back side to the half inch mark.

lith the distance from Y2 to U2 from Y draw the arc K2 then with thedistance S U2 draw arc L2; and draw a line by the back `from if Y to theintersection of the arcs K2 and L2. From S with the distance to e drawarc M2 and with the same distance from M2 draw the arc from S to e; and

'3k P2 then with the distance from O2 to P2 draw the arc Q2 and with thesame from P2 draw R2 and from the intersection of Q2 and R2 draw the arcfrom P2 to O2. Now draw from P2 to A and add to the width of the breastaccording to taste or fashion.

Directions t0 out skirt for dress coa-t, (Fig. 16J-Measure the front andside on hip seam which will make 13% in. draw line S2 measure from thebottom the length of the skirt make k T2; lay the square on S2 withcorner on T2 and draw U2, hold the corner at T2 and vibrate the squareso that 3, on the circular scale will lay over U2 and draw V2. Then turnthe square over and with the corner at T2 make *Y W'2 on V2 opposite13115 on dress and frock coat skirt scale, then lay one side of thesquare on S2 draw X2 through Now with the corner on W2 mark i( Z2 on X2`o posite 13 o the scale last, P l1 mentioned which is the length of thehip seam above mentioned. Around the plate, mark the strap and shapeyour skirt according to taste or fashion.

Directions to out s/cz'r forfroc/c-ooa, (Fig. 17 .)-Measure the frontand side on hip seam which is 13% in. draw line A3 allowing for thelappel measure the length of your skirt and make k B3, lay the square onA3 and draw C3; hold the corner at B3 and vibrate the square so that 3on the circular scale will lay `over C3 and draw D3, :move the circularscale so 2 lays over C3 and draw line E3. Then turn the square over andwith the corner on B3 make if F3 opposite 13%,;- on the dress and frockcoat skirt scale, move the corner to F3 and mark *Y G3 on D3 opposite13-1- on the scale last mentioned making the line L3. Lay the square onD3 with the -corner at G3 and draw H3; hold the corner at G3 and vibratethe square so that 4c on the circular scale lays over H3 and draw I3 andmeasure the length with the back of the skirt on I3 and shape out yourskirt according to taste or fashion.

Directions to eut the sleeve measure the whole circle of the seye, whichs 13n indica-Lay the square to the corner of the cloth and draW J3 andK3 Fig. 18. Now lay the square (as represented in Fig. 4,) traverse1311; of the 4th sleeve scale on the line K3 until 13g on the thirdsleeve scale lays over the line I3, and 1395 on the vibrating sleevescale (when it is at right angles to the third sleeve scale) lays overK3; then make a k opposite 13"?-l on each of the four sleeve scales runa circular line so as to cut each ofthe stars and mark the remainder ofthe sleeve according to measure and fashion.

By my invention a most perfect ft is obtained With mathematical accuracyfor if the suit Worn by the person from Whom the measure is taken doesnot fit the scales and apparatus applied to him to take his measurepress his clothes against his person so that the measure is takenaccurately notwithstanding the clothes he has on at the time do` not fithim.

I contemplate varying the scales on the square and sector used With thisapparatus and this system of measurement; so as to adapt them todelineating and cutting the various garments Worn by persons of eitherseX according to the prevailing fashion or otherwise; and also to makesuch additional scales on said square and sector as may be' useful andconvenient for the purposes designed. And further I contemplate markingthe scales applied to the body upon both sides; so that by reversing thepivots either side or both sides of the person may be measured if anydeformity should make it necessary.

What I claim as my invention and desire to secure by Letters Patent is:

The front, side and back scales, or their equivalents constructedsubstantially as described, and used in conjunction, for the purpose oftaking the measures of persons and cutting garments 'to fit them,subtantially as described.

In testimony whereof, I have hereunto signed my name before tWosubscribing Witnesses.

Mossns T. RoWLANDs.

Witnesses t i R. W. WILcOX, J. DENNIS, Jr.

